Another eastside tradition bites the dust

Here in Baltimore County, it seems that government officials are bound and determined to erase all vestiges of a simpler, kinder, more nostalgic lifestyle.

On my beloved eastside of the county, government wonks have zoned, permitted, licensed and taxed hardworking, blue-collar folks out of a lot of waterfront property, only to see the land sold to wealthy developers (and big campaign donors) who build ugly, gaudy McMansions that their wealthy friends (more campaign contributors) then snap up.

The affectionately-named "summer shore shacks" have all but disappeared from the landscape, and with them, a whole way of life.

I won’t even get into what Senate Bill 509 would have done to portions of Essex and Middle River had it been successful, but thankfully those blue-collar workers united and successfully put the issue on the voter’s referendum, where it was soundly defeated. (Much of then-County Executive Dutch Ruppersberger’s plans for the “under-used, blighted” land eventually panned out, but at least it happened on the free market and not by eminent domain).

But I digress.

It looks like the latest throwback experience to bite the dust is the roadside pit beef stand. A county health inspector made his rounds a couple of Sundays ago and effectively shut down Steve Austin’s pit beef stand that has set up shop on the front parking lot of Donovan’s in Edgemere for the past 15 years.

Steve Austin driving his catering truck in the 2010 Dundalk Independence Day parade. Photo credit: Austin's Facebook page.

Austin, who runs a licensed catering business called This Swine’s for You, sets up his popular stand on Sundays whenever he doesn't have a catering gig or other plans.

But no more. 

County officials told him that he can’t operate unless he works from a completely enclosed food truck, trailer or building, according to a post he published on his Facebook page Sunday morning. He routinely used Facebook to let his loyal fans know when he would set up shop at Donovan’s.

Steve Austin's catering truck is a welcome sight in and around Edgemere . Photo credit: Austin's Facebook page

I’d put money on the inspection being complaint-driven, probably spurred by a local restaurant owner worried about competition. But voicing such a concern would be like saying Ford threatens the existence of Mercedes-Benz.

When I want a sit-down restaurant experience, that’s what I do. When I want to pull my car over after seeing the big red truck parked on North Point Road, and I want to stand in line salivating over the unmistakable aroma of a well-stoked grill, catching up on neighborhood news while waiting to place my order, that’s what I want to do.

This decision hurts not only Austin’s livelihood but also business at Donovan’s. No doubt many people gather their sandwiches and then head in to the neighborhood pub to grab a bag of chips while washing down their sandwiches with a cold brew or a soft drink. (Donovan’s doesn’t have a kitchen and the owner encourages folks to bring their own food).

Lorraine and Steve Austin run This Swine's for You catering services. Photo credit: Steve Austin's Facebook page

Austin said the county's issue is food being served outside, where bugs are flying around.

"That's extremely unhygienic," Austin said the inspector told him.

But by that logic, no restaurant should be able to serve food to outdoor dining tables. While the food is prepared inside, it is being served outside, where those nasty bugs can help themselves.

And what of the pit beef stands that have contained trailers for food ordering, but are still cooking their meats on open outdoor grills? Those businesses hand over sandwiches through service windows to customers who then avail themselves to outdoor shelves or sills holding fixings like mustard, catsup, mayonnaise, onions, barbecue sauce and horseradish? Again, fully accessible to those dirty bugs.

"There is no logical flow of information, that's for sure," Austin said Sunday. "I can't figure it out myself."

While logic might be missing from the equation, Austin said he has no choice but to obey the order to shut down his stand.

I’m sure the county can tout many laws and reasons for making this decision but I for one am tired of losing the little things that make life a little friendlier and allow neighbors to experience a sense of community and togetherness.

Next thing you know, the county will shut down private, backyard cookouts, because they know better than us what's best for us.